The city wasn't just aesthetically beautiful, but also virtually impregnable. The sense of security it gave the citizens encouraged trading, arts and culture flourished and the city prospered.

What is today one of the most impressive palaces and a museum in Jaipur was once just one of the residences of a royal family, which never did anything in small measures. The current Maharaja Sawai Bhawani Singh still lives in part of the palace, so a lot of it is off limits (the flag at the crest of the palace indicates whether he is in residence).

The city palace is in the centre of Jaipur and covers 1/7th or 15 per cent of the Pink City's area. It was built between 1729 and 1732 by Jai Singh. The palace is surrounded by a high wall within which are a series of courtyards, gardens and other buildings. Additions have been made to the existing complex by successive rulers and today the architecture is a mix of Rajasthani and Mughal influences. Some of the maharajas filled the palace with scientific and artistic treasures, while others focussed on public works. Still others were solely interested in their own pleasure and ensured that the harems were fit to burst with 1000 women.

The palace opened to tourists in 1950s and to motion pictures. 400 films have been shot here including North by Northwest and Errol Flynn's Kim.

The palace is distinguished from other Rajput palaces in that the fortifications are separate from the rest of the structure. In most others, all the buildings are part of one integrated structure.

Entry Rs 35/110 Indians/foreigners (includes the museum) and Rs 20/75 for Indians/foreigners children between the ages 5 and 12. Still camera: Rs 50 for Indians, foreigners: free. Video camera: Rs 100. Open 9.30 am to 4.45 pm. Guides: Rs 150.

This open air observatory was designed by Maharaja Jai Singh in 1728. Before commencing the observatory, he sent scholars abroad to study other foreign observatories so that he would have one that would satisfy his passion for astronomy. He built four others (Delhi, Benares, Ujjain and Mathura which is now non-existent) but this one is the largest and the best preserved after restoration work in 1901. Each of these curious sculptures has a specific purpose such as measuring the positions of stars, altitudes, and azimuths and calculating the times of eclipses. The most striking instrument is the sundial with its 27m-high gnomon (the rod of the sundial).

Rs 5, Monday free. Camera: Indians/foreigners: Rs 20/50. Video:Rs 50/100. Open daily 9.30am to 4.30pm.

This is one of the smaller forts, yet it has immense walls and bastions and looms above the sheer rock face. Nicknamed the Tiger Fort, it was built in 1734 by Jai Singh as a retreat for his wives. Further additions were made in 1868. The city at its foothills was designed so that it could be protected in case of attack. An 8 km road runs up through the hills from Jaipur and from the base of the fort it is a 2 km walk through a fairly uphill path. The climb is a little tedious as it can get pretty warm, but the view from the top is well worth the effort.

The fort itself is in ruins, but some of the original painted floral patterns on the walls remain, and some of the rooms furnished for the maharajas. All the queen's apartments are identical, arranged around the central courtyard in perfect symmetry, each with a room for a personal maidservant. The design of the apartments are regular and repetitive in contrast to the other royal dwellings in Jaipur.

Open daily 10am to 5pm, Rs 4, guides Rs 100. 3 kms north east of Jaipur.

On top of a hill stands Jaigarh Fort built in 1726 by Jai Singh. Opened to public only in the mid 80s, it is within walking distance of Amber and like it, looks magnificent lit up at night. High walls, bastions, gateways and watchtowers are forbidding enough even today.

It is a remarkable feat of military architecture and is pretty well preserved, mainly because the fort was never captured.

The armoury in the fort has a large collection of swords and small arms. There is a cannon foundry where the barrels were cast and you can still see the pits. There is also an enormous 50 tonne cannon known as the Jayvana, which stands on top of a tower and is supposed to be the largest cannon on wheels in the world. The barrel measures 8m in diameter and has a range of around 35 kms, but has never been used. The fort was the treasury of the Kuchhwahas and people still believe that some part of the fort still holds gold bullion. During the Emergency in 1976, the government ransacked the fort, emptied the reservoirs of water (where the gold was supposed to have been buried), but found nothing.

The central courtyard has three enormous underground water tanks, one used by prisoners for bathing, one that was said to hold the gold and jewels and one which was empty. There are also gardens, a granary, the 10th century temple of Ram Harihar and the 12th century temple of Kal Bhairav. There are dark passageways among the palaces and you can see a collection of coins and puppets.

The ramparts offer great views of Jaipur spread out below and also the Nahargarh Fort across.

The fort can be reached by jeep or a 20minute walk from Amber. Open daily 10 am to 4.30 pm, Rs 15, free with City Palace ticket stub. Jeep to all three forts Rs 300 for upto 4 people. Open 9 am to 4.30 pm.

Don't take a tour bus to Amber; they scramble you in and out before you've had a chance to absorb the stunning beauty of the fort. Amber was the capital of the Kucchwaha Rajputs from 1037 to 1728 but this fort was begun only in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh, a Rajput commander in Emperor Akbar's army. It was completed by Jai Singh before the move to Jaipur.

Getting there: 11kms north of Jaipur, you can take a bus to Amber (No 113) leaving outside the Hawa Mahal (25mins, Rs 4). You can walk to the fort, which should take you 10 minutes. The climb will leave you hot and bothered so there is a soft drink kiosk at the top, waiting for you. A jeep ride costs Rs 15 per person and takes a maximum of 4 people. Alternatively you could ride up in an elephant which is expensive at Rs 400 per elephant for 4 persons. Just a ride around the courtyard costs Rs 20. You can also take your own vehicle up for Rs 35. Guides: Hire them from the RTDC office, open daily, except Sunday, from 10am to 4.30pm. Rs 75 for 1 hr, Rs 230 for half day excursion, Rs 345 for a full day. Well worth the money, because there are details that you will most certainly miss without the guide.